Piedras Negras

Piedras Negras stands on the Guatemalan bank of the Usumacinta river in dense forest, and it holds a particular place in the history of archaeology. In 1960 Tatiana Proskouriakoff, working from the pattern of dates on its stelae, showed that Maya inscriptions record the births, accessions, marriages and deaths of individual rulers rather than only astronomy and ritual, which opened the entire written history of the Maya to reading. The site itself has plazas, palaces, a sweat bath and carved thrones, all under forest. Reaching it means a boat expedition down the river with camping, and it is among the least visited major Maya sites.

What you actually see

• The stelae Proskouriakoff read - the monuments that unlocked Maya history.
• Carved thrones and panels - the sculpture the site is known for.
• Riverside plazas under forest - the city on the Usumacinta bank.
• A near-untouched setting - one of the least visited major sites.

When to go

January to April, the dry season, when river levels and camping are manageable. Three to four days. Trips are arranged through operators and need permits.

Honest expectations

This is an expedition, not a visit: several days by boat with camping and no facilities. Costs are high and operators are few. The site is unrestored and largely under forest. Insects and heat are severe.

Nearby

The Mexican bank is opposite; Yaxchilan lies downstream.