Psyri

Psyri was a quarter of small workshops and warehouses that fell into decline in the twentieth century and was rediscovered from the 1990s onward, first by bars and then by everyone else. It keeps an unusual mix: leather workers, rope sellers, tool merchants and lampshade makers still occupy ground floors on some streets, while others hold mezedopoleia, coffee roasters, and one of Athens's densest concentrations of street art, with large murals covering whole gables around Iroon and Agiou Anargyron squares. The Hero of Athens tower and the Melina Mercouri cultural centre stand nearby. Evenings bring the squares to life, and the area's tavernas are the traditional place for mezedes and rebetiko music.

What you actually see

• The street art - large murals across the quarter's gables and shutters.
• The old trades - leather, rope and tool workshops still operating.
• The squares - Iroon and Agiou Anargyron, busy from evening onward.
• The mezedopoleia - small plates and rebetiko in traditional tavernas.

When to go

Evenings for the atmosphere, daytime for the workshops and murals. Spring and autumn are most comfortable; summer nights are warm and lively. Some streets are quiet or shuttered on Sunday.

Honest expectations

The quarter is gritty in parts, with derelict buildings and graffiti alongside the commissioned murals, and it can feel edgy late at night on the emptier streets. Restaurant quality varies widely, and the most visible places are not the best.

Nearby

Monastiraki and the Ancient Agora lie east; Keramikos and Gazi are west.