Paxos and Antipaxos

Paxos is roughly ten kilometres long and almost entirely olive grove, with drystone terraces and old presses left among the trees. Three harbours hold most of the life: Gaios behind its screening islet, Lakka in a bay at the north end, and Loggos, which is not much more than a quay and a few tavernas. The west side is the opposite of the east, a run of white cliffs with sea caves cut into them and the natural arch at Tripitos, which can be reached on foot from the road. Antipaxos, a short crossing to the south, is small, farmed with vines and known for two beaches, Vrika and Voutoumi. There is no airport, which shapes the pace of both islands.

What you actually see

• The west cliffs and sea caves - reached by small boat from Lakka or Gaios, weather permitting.
• Tripitos arch - a rock arch on the west coast with a short walk in from the road above.
• The three harbours - Gaios, Lakka and Loggos, each a different size of the same idea.
• Antipaxos beaches - Vrika and Voutoumi, pale pebble and shallow water, busy from late morning.

When to go

May, June and September have warm water without full August pressure. Day boats reach Antipaxos between roughly eleven and four, so the beaches there are quiet either side of that window. Ferries are cancelled in strong wind, which can strand a day trip. Accommodation on Paxos is limited and books out months ahead for high summer.

Honest expectations

Prices are high for the Ionian, driven by limited beds and a yacht crowd. Sandy beaches are essentially absent; the coast is white pebble and rock, which is hard on bare feet. Roads are narrow with blind corners, and parking in the harbours is difficult. Boat trips to the caves are cancelled often enough that you should not plan around them.

Nearby

Corfu, the mainland port of Parga and the beaches of the Epirus coast.