Paleochora

Paleochora sits on a low peninsula pushing into the Libyan Sea, which gives it two beaches: a wide sandy one on the western side, backed by tamarisk trees and shallow enough for children, and a pebble shore on the east where the fishing boats and the ferry dock. On the tip stand the ruins of the Venetian castle of Selino, built in 1279, little more than walls and a gate but with a fine view along the coast. The town itself is low-rise and relaxed, its main street closed to traffic in the evening when tables come out. Boats run east along the roadless south coast to Sougia, Agia Roumeli, Loutro and Chora Sfakion, and south to the island of Gavdos, which makes Paleochora a natural base for the region.

What you actually see

• The double beaches - sand on the west side, pebble and harbour on the east.
• The castle ruins - Venetian walls on the tip of the peninsula.
• The evening street - the main road closed to cars for tables and walking.
• The ferry links - boats along the roadless south coast and to Gavdos.

When to go

May, June, September and October for warm sea and walking weather; the town stays partly open in winter, which is unusual for southern Crete. August is busy but never overwhelming.

Honest expectations

The town is functional rather than picturesque, and its appeal is the pace and the beaches rather than architecture. Wind on the sandy side can be strong. Ferry schedules dictate day trips and are weather-dependent.

Nearby

Elafonisi lies west; Sougia, Agia Roumeli and the Samaria exit are east by boat.