Cape Maleas

Maleas is the middle of the three southern fingers of the Peloponnese and one of the classic hazards of Mediterranean sailing: winds funnel around it and seas build sharply, which is why ancient sailors had a proverb about forgetting your home once you rounded it, and why Odysseus was blown off course here. The cape is treeless and stark, ending in a lighthouse built in 1883 above cliffs that drop straight to deep water. On the eastern flank sits the chapel and hermitage of Agia Irini, cut into the rock and still occupied periodically by a hermit; the cliffs hold caves used by ascetics for centuries. Reaching the tip means driving to Velanidia or Palaiokastro and walking a rough coastal path for around two hours each way.

What you actually see

• The lighthouse - an 1883 tower at the southeastern tip of the mainland.
• The hermit caves - rock-cut cells and the chapel of Agia Irini.
• The cliffs - bare rock falling to deep, wind-torn water.
• The coastal path - a long exposed walk along the finger of the cape.

When to go

Spring and autumn, when temperatures allow a long walk with no shade. Wind is the deciding factor; strong northerlies make both the path and any boat trip unpleasant.

Honest expectations

There is no road to the cape, no water, no shelter and no phone coverage in places. The path is rough and exposed, and the walk is four hours round trip minimum. Boat trips from Neapoli are weather-dependent.

Nearby

Elafonisos and Neapoli lie west; Monemvasia is an hour and a half north.