Wli Waterfall

Wli, sometimes called Agumatsa, drops in a long white ribbon down a forested escarpment on the Ghana-Togo border and is generally counted as the tallest waterfall in West Africa. The lower falls are reached by a flat forty-minute walk from Wli village, crossing the river on small bridges through butterfly-heavy forest, and the pool at the base is cold, swimmable and loud. Thousands of fruit bats roost on the cliff faces above, wheeling out in clouds. A far harder climb leads to the upper falls, several hours of steep ascent rewarded with a view over the valley into Togo.

What you actually see

• The lower falls - the easy walk and the swimmable pool beneath the drop.
• The bat colonies - fruit bats roosting on the cliff walls.
• The upper falls - the steep hike for the full-height view.
• Wli village - the community that manages the site and provides guides.

When to go

Flow is strongest in and just after the rainy season, roughly from June to October, while the dry months from November to March make the walk and the road easier. The upper falls hike is punishing in wet conditions.

Honest expectations

Community guides are compulsory and the fee supports the village, which is fair - agree on tips separately. The lower walk is easy; the upper hike is genuinely steep and slippery and takes several hours, so do not attempt it casually or in flip-flops. Swimming is at the base pool where the spray is heavy and rocks are slick. The bats should be observed rather than disturbed.

Nearby

Mount Afadja, the Tafi Atome monkey sanctuary and Lake Volta to the west.