Accra

Accra spread from a cluster of coastal settlements around three European forts, Ussher, James and Christiansborg, into a metropolitan area of several million, and the older layers are still legible in it. Jamestown, the oldest quarter, has the 1871 lighthouse, colonial-era buildings in poor repair, a fishing harbour and a set of boxing gyms that have produced several world champions. Makola is the central market, spilling out of its buildings across surrounding streets. The Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park holds the mausoleum of the country's first president. Independence Square, the Arts Centre, the Osu district for eating and the Nubuke and Gallery 1957 spaces for contemporary art fill out most visits.

What you actually see

• Jamestown - the lighthouse, fishing harbour and boxing gyms.
• Makola market - the central trading market and its surrounding streets.
• Nkrumah Memorial Park - the mausoleum and museum of the first president.
• The art galleries - the contemporary spaces that have grown since the 2010s.

When to go

November to March is drier and easier; the harmattan in December and January brings dust but cooler nights. The Chale Wote street art festival in Jamestown falls in August. Traffic is at its worst on weekday afternoons.

Honest expectations

Traffic congestion is severe and journeys across the city take far longer than distances suggest. Jamestown is poor and photography there is often challenged or charged. Humidity outside the harmattan is heavy. Sights are scattered and taxis or ride apps are needed.

Nearby

Kokrobite lies west; Shai Hills and Ada Foah are east.