Paraná

Paraná sits on high ground above the river that gives it its name, which distinguishes it from most cities of the littoral: streets run down to bluffs and then to a costanera of parks, beaches and boat clubs stretching for kilometres along the water. The centre gathers around Plaza Primero de Mayo, faced by the cathedral with its domed profile and arcaded front, with the old government buildings and a provincial museum nearby. Parque Urquiza, laid out on the slope between the centre and the river, is one of the finest urban parks in Argentina, with terraces, an open-air theatre and long views over the water and islands. Boats run to the islands and sandbanks in summer.

History

In 1730 people from Santa Fe, driven out by native raids, settled on the far bank of the Paraná and called the place Baxada del Paraná, the landing, building a fort and huts on today's Plaza Primero de Mayo, and in time they grew strong enough to take the offensive. From 1854 to 1861 the city was the capital of the Argentine Confederation (Wikipedia, Paraná, Entre Ríos).

The main sights

• Parque Urquiza - the terraced riverside park with views over the Paraná.
• The cathedral and plaza - the domed cathedral facing the shaded main square.
• The costanera - kilometres of riverside parks, beaches and clubs.
• The island trips - boats to sandbanks and river beaches.

When to go

April to November, when the humidity eases; summer is hot and sticky, though it is also when the river beaches are used. Sunset from Parque Urquiza is the city's classic moment. Museums close on some Mondays.

Practical notes

Paraná is quiet by Argentine city standards and its formal sights are modest, with the park and the river doing most of the work. Beaches depend on river levels, which have fallen in recent dry years. Summer humidity is heavy.

Nearby

Santa Fe is across the river through the tunnel; Victoria lies south along the water.

Key facts