The Alster Lakes

A miller dammed the Alster river in the thirteenth century for water power, and the result is two lakes sitting in the middle of Hamburg: the small Binnenalster ringed by commercial buildings, and the far larger Aussenalster with parkland, villas and rowing clubs along seven kilometres of shore. The path around the outer lake is the city's main walking and running route, and in summer it fills with dinghies, kayaks and rowing eights. In hard winters the lakes freeze solid enough that the city permits people onto the ice, which happens rarely and turns into an impromptu fair.

What you actually see

• The shore path - around seven kilometres of the outer lake, all public.
• The sailing - dinghies and rowing eights out from spring to autumn.
• Jungfernstieg - the promenade along the inner lake.
• The Alsterfontane - the jet in the middle of the inner lake, on from spring.

When to go

May to September for boats and the fountain, which is switched off over winter. Early morning on the shore path is quiet before the runners arrive. The lakes freeze rarely, but when the ice is declared safe the city walks out onto it and that is worth changing plans for.

Honest expectations

Hamburg's weather is grey and wet for much of the year and the lakes look flat and dull under it. The shore path is shared by walkers, runners and cyclists and gets congested at rush hour and on warm evenings. Boat rental queues in summer are long. Swimming in the lakes is not permitted.

Nearby

The Speicherstadt warehouse district is south; the Elbe and the harbour beyond it.