Mtskheta

Mtskheta, just outside Tbilisi at the confluence of two rivers, is one of the oldest cities in Georgia and the spiritual heart of the nation, where Georgians first adopted Christianity in the fourth century. Its monuments were inscribed by UNESCO in 1994. Two churches carry the visit: Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, rebuilt in the eleventh century and long the coronation and burial place of Georgian kings, and Jvari, a small sixth-century church on the hill above whose four-apse plan was copied across the country, standing where the two rivers meet below.

History

Burials show Mtskheta was already an important settlement by the beginning of the 1st millennium BC; the Georgian Chronicles say it was founded by Mtskhetos, son of Kartlos, while historians more often credit Meskhian tribes in the 5th century BC. From the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD it was the capital of the Kingdom of Iberia, walled by its first king, Parnavaz, and guarded by three forts, Armazi, Tsitsamuri and Sarkine, and it was the centre of the Christianisation of Iberia, where Christianity became the state religion in 337. Its historical monuments became a World Heritage Site in 1994, the Georgian Orthodox Church declared it a Holy City in 2014, and in 2016 UNESCO placed them under enhanced protection under the Hague Convention (Wikipedia, Mtskheta).

What to look for

• Svetitskhoveli Cathedral - the great medieval cathedral of the kings.
• Jvari Monastery - the sublime hilltop church with its views.
• The old town - the ancient former capital and its lanes.
• The river confluence - the meeting of the Aragvi and Kura rivers.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the mildest weather; it is an easy half-day trip from Tbilisi, often combined with the drive up the Georgian Military Highway. The churches are working, sacred places, so dress modestly and behave respectfully.

Good to know

It is a popular and easy trip from Tbilisi, so it can be busy with tour groups. As deeply sacred, active churches, modest dress is required, with women often needing to cover their hair, and scarves are usually available at the door. It is a half-day visit rather than a full day. Its ancient churches and spiritual significance, though, are at the heart of Georgian identity.

Nearby

Tbilisi, the Georgian Military Highway and the Uplistsikhe cave town are within reach.

Key facts