Papenoo Valley

The Papenoo is the largest river on Tahiti and its valley is the only way into the island's interior, a track climbing from the north coast up the riverbed and its banks to the Relais de la Maroto and on across the old caldera floor of the volcano that built the island. Waterfalls come off the walls, marae stand in the forest, and the track crosses the river repeatedly, which is why it needs a four-wheel drive.

What you actually see

• The caldera floor - the interior of the volcano the island was built by.
• The river crossings - the fords the track makes repeatedly up the valley.
• The waterfalls - falls coming off the valley walls along the route.
• The forest marae - stone platforms standing in the interior.

When to go

May to October is the dry season and the only sensible window. Rain raises the river and the crossings become impassable. Tours run when conditions allow.

Honest expectations

The track needs a proper four-wheel drive and river crossings become dangerous after rain; guided tours are the sensible option. There is no phone signal in the interior. Vehicles are damaged on this route routinely.

Nearby

Papenoo is on the coast, and Papeete is west.