Bella Coola Valley

Highway 20 crosses the Chilcotin plateau and then has to get down to sea level, which it does on the Hill: about a twenty kilometre unpaved descent with grades to eighteen per cent and switchbacks, built by local residents in 1953 after the province said it could not be done. The valley below holds the Bella Coola River, one of the highest concentrations of grizzly bears in North America, which gather in autumn for the salmon; viewing is done from platforms and drift boats with licensed operators. Alexander Mackenzie reached the Pacific here in 1793, and a rock records it. The Nuxalk Nation has lived in the valley for thousands of years.

What you actually see

• The Hill - an unpaved 1,500-metre descent built by residents in 1953.
• The grizzly gathering - bears on the river during the autumn salmon run.
• The Mackenzie rock - where the first crossing of North America reached the sea.
• The Nuxalk community - the nation whose territory the valley is.

When to go

August to October for bears and salmon; the valley is wet and quiet the rest of the year. The Hill is passable year-round in good conditions but is serious in snow or rain.

Honest expectations

The Hill frightens many drivers and is not suitable for large RVs or trailers. The drive from Williams Lake is a full day. Bear viewing requires a licensed operator and books out in September.

Nearby

Tweedsmuir park adjoins; Chilko Lake lies southeast.