Cayenne

Cayenne, the capital of French Guiana, is a lively, colourful and culturally rich city on the tropical Atlantic coast, a genuine crossroads of the world. Its old centre charms with pastel-painted Creole houses, their wooden shutters and balconies faded by the tropical sun, gathered around the leafy Place des Palmistes with its towering palms. The bustling covered market overflows with tropical fruit, spices, crafts and the flavours of a remarkable cultural mix, French, Creole, Caribbean, Amerindian, Hmong, Brazilian and more, that makes Cayenne unique. With its faded colonial charm, vibrant markets, Creole soul and role as gateway to the rainforest and space centre, the city offers a warm and fascinating introduction to this extraordinary corner of South America.

History

The Spanish explorers who first came found the region too hot to settle, and the first French settlement, in 1604, was soon destroyed by the Portuguese enforcing the Treaty of Tordesillas. French colonists returned in 1643 and founded Cayenne but were driven out by attacks from the local Amerindians, and only in 1664 did France found a lasting settlement; over the next decade the colony passed between the French, Dutch and English before returning to France. Cayenne became a municipality in 1790, was taken by an Anglo-Portuguese force in 1809 and run from Brazil until 1817, and served as a French penal colony from 1854 to 1938 (Wikipedia, Cayenne).

What to look for

• The Creole houses - the pastel colonial architecture.
• Place des Palmistes - the leafy palm-filled central square.
• The covered market - the vibrant market of fruit, spice and crafts.
• The cultural mix - the French, Creole, Amerindian and Asian blend.

When to go

July to November, the drier season, is the most comfortable time to explore the city, avoiding the heaviest rains; the tropical climate is warm and humid year-round. The market is liveliest in the mornings, and Cayenne is famous for its vibrant Carnival in the early months of the year.

Good to know

Cayenne is a modest, somewhat faded tropical capital rather than a polished tourist city, so its appeal lies in its Creole atmosphere, market, cultural mix and role as a gateway more than grand sights. As a colourful, characterful crossroads capital of pastel houses, vibrant markets and remarkable cultural diversity, though, Cayenne is a genuinely fascinating place to experience.

Nearby

The Amazon rainforest, the space centre and the coast lie beyond the city.

Key facts