Vanoise National Park

The Vanoise was declared France's first national park in 1963, largely to protect the Alpine ibex, which had been hunted almost out of existence in the region; the core zone joins the Italian Gran Paradiso park across the border, and together they hold one of the largest ibex populations in Europe, running into thousands. The park covers glaciers, high pasture and around a hundred and seven summits over three thousand metres. Chamois, marmots, bearded vultures and golden eagles are present. Marked routes and a network of staffed refuges make multi-day traverses possible, and the GR5 crosses the park.

What you actually see

• The ibex herds - the species the park was created to save, now numerous.
• The glaciers - ice fields around the Grande Casse and the Vanoise cols.
• The refuges - staffed huts linking multi-day walking routes.
• The high pasture - marmots, alpine flowers and summer grazing.

When to go

July to September, when the passes are clear and refuges are staffed; snow lingers into July on high cols. Ibex are easiest to see early and late in the day at altitude.

Honest expectations

The core zone bans dogs, camping and fires outright, and rangers enforce it. Refuges must be booked and fill in August. Weather changes fast at altitude and routes need proper equipment.

Nearby

The Route des Grandes Alpes passes nearby; Italy's Gran Paradiso adjoins the park.