Kalakukko of Kuopio

Kalakukko is a Savonian speciality from around Kuopio: small fish, traditionally little vendace, layered with pork fat and sealed inside a thick rye crust, then slow-baked until the whole thing, bones and all, turns soft and edible. Sold warm at the Kuopio market, it is filling travellers' food from the lake country.

What you actually see

• The sealed rye loaf - the thick rye crust baked around the fish.
• Vendace filling - the small lake fish and pork fat inside, softened whole.
• The Kuopio market - the traditional home of the dish.
• Slow-baked tradition - the long bake that makes even the bones soft.

When to go

Year-round; buy it warm from the Kuopio market hall for the real thing. It is hearty, filling food rather than a light bite.

Honest expectations

The idea of eating the softened fish bones and all puts some people off, though it is milder than it sounds. It is dense, heavy, rustic food more than a delicacy. Kuopio is deep in the lake district, so it is a regional speciality to seek out rather than find everywhere.

Nearby

Kuopio's market square and the Puijo tower are close; Lake Saimaa and Savonlinna lie south.