Juhannus Midsummer

Juhannus, the midsummer festival, is the moment Finland leaves the cities for the lakes. Families gather at summer cottages, bonfires burn on the shores, saunas are heated, and the sun barely sets, leaving a long luminous night that is the emotional high point of the Finnish year.

What you actually see

• Midsummer bonfires - the great fires, kokko, lit on lakeshores and islands.
• Cottage and lake life - the sauna, swimming and gathering at the summer cabin.
• The white night - the endless twilight of the shortest night, the sun barely gone.
• Folk traditions - birch decorations, flower wreaths and old midsummer customs.

When to go

The weekend closest to 24 June, and above all somewhere rural and lakeside where the tradition belongs. Cities empty out, so a cottage or an organised event is the way in for visitors.

Honest expectations

This is a family and cottage celebration, so the cities can feel deserted rather than festive on the weekend - to feel it you need to be somewhere rural. Much is private, so a guesthouse or organised bonfire is the visitor's route in. Book well ahead, since Finns claim their cottages long in advance.

Nearby

Any lake district does it well; Seurasaari in Helsinki holds a public bonfire for those who stay in town.