Levuka

Levuka was the Pacific's frontier port in the nineteenth century - a beach town of traders, whalers and planters where Fiji was ceded to Britain in 1874 and where the country's first capital sat until the government moved to Suva. What survives is a single main street of timber and corrugated-iron shopfronts running along the shore beneath abrupt green cliffs, backed by old churches, a Masonic hall and the schools that made the town a regional centre. UNESCO listed it as a rare surviving example of a late colonial Pacific port town built by islanders on their own terms rather than to an imperial plan.

History

European settlers and traders founded Levuka around 1820 as the first modern town in Fiji, a port of traders, missionaries, shipwrights and speculators that grew on the sea cucumber trade; Marist priests set up a mission in 1858, and by 1870 the town had more than 2,000 people. Seru Epenisa Cakobau was crowned king of Fiji here in 1871, and after the islands were annexed by Britain in 1874 Levuka stayed the capital until 1877, when the administration moved to Suva because the steep hills left no room to grow. The town saw Fiji's first bank, post office, school and hospital, the Fiji Times was founded here in 1869, the Royal Hotel is the oldest hotel still operating in the South Pacific, and in June 2013 Levuka was designated a World Heritage Site (Wikipedia, Levuka).

What to look for

• Beach Street - the timber and iron shopfronts along the waterfront.
• The cession site - where Fiji was ceded to Britain in 1874.
• Levuka Public School and the old churches - the town's civic architecture.
• The cliff staircase - the long climb to the ridge for the harbour view.

When to go

The drier, cooler months from May to October are the comfortable window. Levuka is a quiet town in any season; the cession day anniversary in October brings ceremonies. Ferries and flights from Viti Levu are weather-dependent, so allow a buffer day.

Things to know

Levuka is genuinely faded rather than restored - paint peels, some buildings are shut, and visitors expecting a polished heritage town will be surprised. That patina is the point for those who love it. Facilities are basic, with a handful of guesthouses and a couple of cafes. Rain is frequent on this side of Ovalau, and the town's setting under cliffs makes for dramatic light and sudden showers alike.

Nearby

Ovalau's villages and coast; ferries connect back to Viti Levu.

Key facts