Montevideo

Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, is one of the most relaxed and liveable cities in South America, an easygoing, cultured place spread along the northern shore of the vast River Plate. Its historic old town, the Ciudad Vieja, holds handsome, sometimes faded, colonial and belle-epoque architecture, grand plazas and the bustling Mercado del Puerto, while its defining feature is the Rambla, a long, breezy seaside promenade where locals stroll, fish and sip the ubiquitous mate tea, the emblem of the country's warm, unhurried culture.

What you actually see

• The Ciudad Vieja - the historic old town and Plaza Independencia.
• The Rambla - the long seaside promenade along the River Plate.
• The Mercado del Puerto - the market of grilled-meat parrillas.
• The mate culture - the locals with their mate gourds and thermoses.

When to go

October to April, the warmer months, for the best weather and beach and Rambla life; summer is pleasant and lively, while winter is mild but grey. The city has a relaxed, cultured pace best enjoyed strolling the old town and the seafront.

Honest expectations

It is a relaxed, low-key capital rather than a city of blockbuster sights, so its appeal is the easygoing atmosphere, the cafe-and-mate culture, the seafront and the faded grandeur rather than must-see monuments; it is seen in a day or two. Like any city, some areas call for normal caution. It is a gentle, welcoming introduction to one of the continent's most stable and progressive countries.

Nearby

Colonia del Sacramento, Punta del Este and the coast are within reach.