Muhu Island

Muhu is the third largest Estonian island and the one everyone crosses on the way to Saaremaa, which means most people drive through it in twenty minutes without stopping. What they pass is juniper heath and alvar, thin soil over limestone where junipers grow in scattered dark clumps, fields divided by drystone walls, and villages of thatched or reed-roofed houses. Koguva at the western end is the best preserved. Muhu has a distinct folk costume tradition with strong orange and red embroidery still worn on occasions, and the island keeps a set of customs and a dialect separate from Saaremaa. The Padaste manor on the south coast ran as a hotel and restaurant for thirty years; it closed in autumn 2025 and was put up for sale.

History

In January 1227 an army of the Livonian Brothers of the Sword and their allies, led by William of Modena, crossed the sea ice to subdue Saaremaa, the last stronghold of the pagan Estonians, and the Estonians surrendered on Muhu at a ring fort called Mona, whose earthworks still survive near the causeway between the islands; the surrender ended the Estonian Crusade. On 16 February 1270 the Battle of Karuse was fought on the frozen sea between Muhu and the mainland, where the Grand Duchy of Lithuania won a decisive victory over the Livonian Order. The island now has 52 villages, and with an area of 208 km² it is the third largest in Estonia (Wikipedia, Muhu).

What's there

• Juniper heath - the alvar landscape of thin soil over limestone.
• Stone fences - the drystone walls dividing the fields.
• Thatched villages - the reed and thatch roofs of the older houses.
• Muhu embroidery - the bright folk textile tradition of the island.

When to go

May to September for the roads, the ferries and the light; midsummer around Jaanipäev in late June is the busiest. Winter can bring an ice road across the strait when conditions allow. Autumn is quiet and the heath colours.

Before you go

Most visitors pass straight through toward Saaremaa. Ferry queues in high summer can be long and booking ahead is advisable. Facilities outside Koguva are minimal. Many houses are private and not open.

Nearby

Koguva village is at the western end; Saaremaa lies across the causeway.

Key facts