Gharb Soheil

Gharb Soheil sits on the west bank above Aswan opposite Soheil Island, and it is the Nubian village most visitors see, its houses painted in blues, ochres and pinks with decorated doorways and domed roofs, running up the slope from the water. Nubian people were resettled here and in similar villages after Lake Nasser flooded their homeland, and the village makes part of its living from visitors: guesthouses take overnight guests, families serve meals of Nubian bread, fish and stews, and there are craft stalls and henna painting. Some households keep crocodiles, which is a long-standing local practice that visitors find either interesting or troubling. The sail up from Aswan through the cataract rocks is a good part of the trip.

What you actually see

• Painted village houses - strong colour and decorated doorways up the slope.
• Domed Nubian roofs - the vernacular building style of the villages.
• Nubian home cooking - meals served by families in their houses.
• The sail up through the cataract - granite islands on the way.

When to go

October to April. Late afternoon and evening are best, or stay overnight in a guesthouse, which is a far better experience than the two-hour tour version. Half a day minimum.

Honest expectations

The village is heavily set up for tourism and the tour version can feel like a staged visit. Kept crocodiles in small tanks are common and many visitors find that uncomfortable. Boat prices are negotiated hard on the corniche. Photographing people's homes needs permission.

Nearby

Sehel Island is opposite; Aswan is downstream.