Machalilla National Park

Machalilla protects a stretch of the Manabi coast where tropical dry forest meets cliffs, empty beaches and offshore islands, an ecosystem that has almost vanished elsewhere on the Pacific coast of South America. Between roughly June and September humpback whales arrive from Antarctic waters to breed in the warm shallows offshore, and boats from Puerto Lopez run daily to see them, often combined with Isla de la Plata, a small island whose blue-footed boobies, frigatebirds and albatross colonies have earned it the nickname of the poor man's Galapagos. Inland the park holds the archaeological site and community of Agua Blanca and forest trails through ceibo and kapok woodland.

What you actually see

• Humpback whales in season - breeding groups offshore from June.
• Isla de la Plata seabirds - boobies, frigatebirds and albatross colonies.
• Tropical dry forest - ceibo and kapok woodland inland.
• Empty cliff-backed beaches - the protected coast itself.

When to go

June to September for whales and for the drier, though often overcast, coastal weather. Two days. Boat trips leave Puerto Lopez in the morning and sell out in high season.

Honest expectations

The whale season is the only reason many come, and outside it boat trips are quieter. The crossing to Isla de la Plata is often rough and people are sick. The coast here is grey and misty for much of the year. Whale-watching boat crowding is a real issue.

Nearby

Puerto Lopez is the base; Los Frailes lies north in the park.