Scotts Head and Soufriere Bay

Dominica's southern tip is the rim of a drowned volcanic crater, and Soufriere Bay fills the caldera: the seabed plunges close to shore down the crater wall, which makes the snorkelling extraordinary for effort - fans, sponges and reef fish on a slope that keeps going down into blue. The village of Scotts Head sits on the isthmus at the rim's end, where a five-minute scramble up the headland shows the calm Caribbean on one side and the ruffled Atlantic on the other, touching. Champagne Reef's volcanic bubbles rise just up the coast, and Friday nights the village lights fish fires.

What you actually see

• The crater-wall snorkel - the drop-off metres from the beach.
• The isthmus viewpoint - Caribbean and Atlantic meeting at the headland.
• Champagne Reef - the bubbling volcanic seabed up the coast.
• Friday fish fires - the village grill evening at the bay.

When to go

February to May for the calmest, clearest water; the bay shelters well most of the year. Mornings give glassy snorkelling before the breeze. The marine reserve's no-take rules hold throughout.

Honest expectations

Entries are over pebbles and rock - reef shoes help, and the drop-off means weak swimmers should stay with a float or guide. Facilities are village-simple. The headland path is steep, loose and flip-flop-hostile. Champagne Reef's famous bubbles are charming but modest; the crater wall is the better swim.

Nearby

Champagne Reef, Soufriere's sulphur springs and Roseau.