Bayamo

Bayamo was founded in 1513 as one of the earliest Spanish settlements on the island, and it burned almost completely in 1869, which is why so little colonial fabric survives. What is left centres on the Plaza del Himno and the parish church beside it, with the birthplace of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes on the main square as a museum. The town is quiet, low-rise and unusually pleasant to walk, and horse-drawn carts still work as ordinary public transport through the streets.

What you actually see

• Plaza del Himno - the small square beside the parish church, with the church's painted ceiling inside.
• The Céspedes house - a colonial house on the main square, now a museum.
• The horse carts - coches working as scheduled public transport around the town.
• The wax museum - a small and unexpectedly popular collection of Cuban figures.

When to go

November to April is the dry season. Saturday nights bring a street party along Calle General García with food stalls and music, which is the town at its liveliest. Summer is very hot on this plain.

Honest expectations

The 1869 fire took most of the colonial town, so anyone coming for architecture will find less than in Camagüey or Trinidad. Museums keep short and unreliable hours. There is little accommodation beyond private houses.

Nearby

Manzanillo is west on the coast, and the Sierra Maestra rises south of the city.