Omis

Omis sits where the Cetina comes out of a deep canyon into the sea, and the geography made its reputation: from the twelfth to the fourteenth century the town's ships raided shipping along this coast and retreated up the gorge where larger vessels could not follow, and the Omis pirates were serious enough that Venice and the papacy both mounted campaigns against them. Two fortresses look down on the town - Mirabela on a crag directly above and Starigrad higher up the ridge - and both are climbed for the view down the canyon and along the coast. Rafting and zip lines now run in the gorge.

What you actually see

• A town in a canyon mouth - where the Cetina reaches the sea.
• Pirates who used the gorge - retreating where big ships could not follow.
• Mirabela and Starigrad - two fortresses on the crags above.
• The canyon behind - rafting and zip lines through it now.

When to go

May to September; the river runs strongest in spring. Half a day.

Honest expectations

Both fortress climbs are steep and exposed with no shade. The old town is small and packed in August. Parking near the river mouth is very difficult in season. The beach is busy pebble.

Nearby

The Cetina canyon runs inland; Split is north-west along the coast.