Capurgana

Capurgana sits at the far north-western corner of Colombia where the Darien forest meets the Caribbean, and there is no road - the Pan-American Highway breaks here, the only gap in its entire length from Alaska to Argentina, because the Darien Gap has never been bridged by road. Access is a two-hour open boat crossing from Necocli or Turbo, which is rough in wind, or a light aircraft. There are no cars in the village; horses and walking do the work. The water is clear with reef for snorkelling and diving, and jungle trails lead to waterfalls and over the ridge to Sapzurro. The Darien is also a major irregular migration route, and that reality is present in the region.

What you actually see

• No road connection at all - the Darien Gap breaks the highway here.
• A two-hour open boat crossing - or a light aircraft.
• No cars in the village - horses and walking instead.
• Reef and jungle trails - to waterfalls and over the ridge.

When to go

December to April, the calmer season. Several days.

Honest expectations

The boat crossing is genuinely rough and cancels in wind; luggage gets wet. There are no cash machines that can be relied on - bring money. Power and water are intermittent. The wider Darien region has serious security and migration issues; stay to the village and marked trails.

Nearby

Sapzurro is over the ridge; the Panama border is beyond it.