Atins

Atins sits where the Preguicas river meets the Atlantic on the eastern edge of the Lençois Maranhenses, and it has sand streets, no proper road in and a population in the hundreds. It became known for two things. One is access: the dunes and their rain-filled lagoons start directly behind the village, so it is the closest base to the quieter part of the park, entered by 4x4 or on foot with a guide. The other is wind - the same steady conditions that made this stretch of coast a kitesurfing destination, with schools operating on the flat river water and in the ocean. Electricity and phone signal arrived late and remain limited. The village has grown fast in the last decade and building has outpaced its infrastructure.

What to look for

• Dunes starting behind the houses - the Lençois lagoons within walking distance.
• Sand streets and no road - access by boat or by beach in a 4x4.
• Kitesurfing on flat river water - the wind that built the local economy.
• A village outgrowing itself - rapid building ahead of its services.

When to go

June to September, when the lagoons hold water. Three days.

Things to know

Getting in is slow and expensive whichever way you choose, and the beach 4x4 route depends on tide. Lagoons are dry outside the season and the dunes are then just sand. Power and water can fail. Prices are high for the level of comfort.

Nearby

Barreirinhas is upriver; the main Lençois entrances are west.

Key facts