Acandi

Playona and Playa Soledad near Acandi are among the most important leatherback nesting beaches in the Colombian Caribbean. The leatherback is the largest turtle, reaching two metres and several hundred kilograms, and it nests at night between roughly March and June, hauling up the sand to dig and lay before returning to the sea. Eggs were traditionally collected and eaten or sold; community programmes now pay local people to protect and monitor nests instead, relocating those at risk and releasing hatchlings, and nesting numbers have responded. Visits go at night with guides and strict rules - no white light, no flash, no touching, keep behind the animal. Acandi has no road connection; access is by boat or small plane.

History

Spanish settlers founded the first town around 1890 as San Nicolás de Titumate, on the west bank of the Acandí River, but floods kept ruining it, and in 1896 the people moved to the present, safer site. The municipality was created on 5 August 1908, and the name comes from an Indigenous word said to mean river of stones (Wikipedia, Acandí).

The landscape

• Leatherbacks nesting at night - the largest turtle species.
• A community protection programme - which replaced egg collection.
• Strict viewing rules - no white light, no flash, no approach.
• No road access - boat or light aircraft only.

When to go

March to June for nesting, at night. Several days.

Before you go

Nesting is not guaranteed on a given night - it may mean several nights of waiting. Rules are strict and enforced for the turtles' sake. Access is by rough boat crossing. Facilities are basic and the region is remote.

Nearby

Capurgana is north; Turbo and Necocli are across the gulf.