Nuqui and Bahia Solano

The Pacific coast of Choco has no road connection to the rest of Colombia, which is why it still looks the way it does: dark volcanic sand, rainforest coming down to the tideline, rivers running out through the trees, and surf breaking on open ocean. Nuqui is the southern base, with lodges strung along Guachalito beach and the village of Termales, where thermal pools sit a short walk back into the forest. Bahia Solano and El Valle are to the north, with a longer beach, waterfalls inland and the better surf. Humpback whales pass and calve offshore between July and October.

What you actually see

• Guachalito beach - dark sand and rainforest along the southern shore.
• The Termales hot springs - thermal pools a walk into the forest behind the village.
• Humpback whales - migration and calving offshore between July and October.
• Jungle rivers and waterfalls - boat and walking trips inland from El Valle.

When to go

July to October brings the whales and is the main season, though the sea is rougher then. Rain is constant regardless of the month. Book lodges well ahead for whale season, since capacity along the coast is small and flights are limited to a handful of seats a day. Surf conditions are decent through much of the year.

Honest expectations

This is one of the wettest coasts on the planet and it will rain on you, hard, most days. Access is by small aircraft with strict baggage limits, and flights are cancelled for weather. Lodges are all-inclusive, cash-based and expensive for the standard of room. Sandflies bite through the day and the sea has strong currents in places.

Nearby

Utria National Park sits between the two and is reachable by boat from either side.