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Tongren

Villages where nearly every household paints thangka, an art tradition recognised by UNESCO.

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Typeart town
WhereQinghai
Nearest cityXining
Best seasonApril to October
Time to allowTwo days
Getting thereRebgong, Huangnan prefecture, eastern Qinghai; buses from Xining, about four hours
EntryFree; monasteries and workshops charged

Tongren, known in Tibetan as Rebgong, is the centre of a painting tradition several centuries old in which whole villages, particularly Wutun and Nianduhu, live by making religious art: thangka scroll paintings, murals, appliqué and sculpture, with techniques passed from master to apprentice within families and boys often starting in childhood. Regong arts were inscribed by UNESCO in 2009. Workshops are open along the village lanes with painters at work on stretched canvases, grinding mineral pigments and applying gold. Wutun monastery and Longwu monastery hold examples in place, and the June festival brings village dancing and rituals.

What you actually see

  • The painting workshops - thangka in progress in village houses.
  • The mineral pigments - stone colours ground and mixed by hand.
  • Wutun and Longwu monasteries - murals and sculpture in situ.
  • The summer festival - village rituals and dancing in June.

When to go

April to October for mild weather; the Regong festival falls in the sixth lunar month, usually around July, and is the liveliest time. Winter is cold at 2,500 metres.

Honest expectations

Workshops are working businesses and expect sales interest. Prices for genuine hand-painted thangka are high, and printed copies are sold as originals in tourist shops. Photography inside monasteries is restricted.

Nearby

Kanbula lies north; Xining is northwest.

What to pack for Tongren

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Opening times, ticket prices and seasonal closures change - check the official source before you go: official site.

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