Tonle Sap Lake

Tonle Sap is the great heart-lake of Cambodia, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, which swells and shrinks dramatically with the seasons in a unique reversal of its river's flow. A vital fishery feeding much of the nation, its waters are home to extraordinary communities who live their entire lives afloat, in floating villages of houses, schools, shops and temples, or in houses on towering stilts, a fascinating glimpse of life on the water near Siem Reap.

What you actually see

• The floating villages - the communities of floating houses, schools and shops.
• The stilted villages - the houses on towering stilts for the flood season.
• A boat trip - the cruise among the water communities.
• The birdlife - the Prek Toal reserve, a haven for waterbirds.

When to go

The lake is most impressive in the wet season and just after, roughly August to December, when it swells to many times its dry-season size and the floating life is at its fullest; in the dry season it shrinks dramatically and boats can be limited.

Honest expectations

Some floating-village tours have become touristy and can feel exploitative, with orphanage visits and hard-sell stops that are best avoided; choose a responsible, community-focused operator. The nearer, most-visited village is the most touristy, while quieter ones like Kampong Phluk feel more genuine. Water levels vary hugely by season.

Nearby

Siem Reap and the temples of Angkor are close.