Koh Tonsay

Koh Tonsay lies a short crossing from Kep, a small island with one main beach lined with simple bungalows, hammocks and restaurants serving the crab and squid landed nearby. There is no proper road, electricity runs on generators for part of the evening, and the water is shallow and warm though not the clearest in Cambodia because of sediment from the Mekong delta. A rough path circles part of the island through scrub and past quieter coves. Most people come for the day from Kep, eat lunch and lie in a hammock; a smaller number stay overnight, which is when the island is at its best, after the day boats have gone. The name means rabbit island, from a supposed resemblance in its shape.

History

Legend says the name comes from rumsay, to disperse: the Khmer prince Sakor Reach, fleeing a commander's troops with his exhausted men, led them across the sea to this island off Kep, where they scattered, and Koh Rumsay became Koh Tonsay, Rabbit Island. Between 1953 and 1970 the island served as a rehabilitation centre for convicts, who also guarded it, and horse-cart paths and wooden, thatched hotels were built then, since lost to weather and time (Wikipedia, Koh Tonsay).

What's there

• The main beach - bungalows, hammocks and beach restaurants.
• Seafood lunch - crab and squid landed and cooked on the spot.
• The island path - a rough circuit through scrub to quieter coves.
• Evening quiet - the island after the day boats have left.

When to go

November to April is the dry season with the calmest crossings. May to October brings rough seas and boats are cancelled. Weekends and Khmer holidays fill the beach.

Things to know

The water is murky rather than clear, which surprises people expecting Thai-style clarity. Bungalows are very basic, with cold water and limited power. Sandflies are a real problem on the beach. Day-trip crowds dominate the middle of the day.

Nearby

Kep is across the water; Kampot lies west.

Key facts