Kep

Kep was built in the colonial period and then the mid-twentieth century as a seaside retreat, and it has an unusual atmosphere because so many of the modernist villas of that era stand empty and roofless among the trees, slowly being reclaimed. What brings people now is the crab. At the market on the shore, women wade out to wicker pots submerged in the shallows, haul in blue swimmer crabs and cook them within minutes, and the local way is with fresh green Kampot peppercorns still on the stalk, which is one of the great dishes of Southeast Asia. Behind the town, Kep National Park has a walking loop through forest on the hillside, and boats run out to Rabbit Island for a simple beach day. It is quiet, small and best treated as a place to eat and slow down.

What you actually see

• The crab market - pots hauled from the shallows and cooked on the spot.
• Crab with green Kampot pepper - the local dish, eaten at the market shacks.
• Kep National Park - the forest walking loop on the hill above town.
• Rabbit Island - the boat trip out to a simple island beach.

When to go

November to April is the dry season and by far the most pleasant; the wet months bring heavy afternoon rain and rougher boat crossings. The crab market works every day and is liveliest in the late morning. Kampot's pepper farms are half an hour away and pair naturally with a visit.

Honest expectations

Kep's own beach is small and unremarkable, so people expecting a resort strip will be disappointed; the town is about food and quiet rather than swimming. Rabbit Island is basic, with simple bungalows and limited power, and the crossing is rough in poor weather. The abandoned villas are private property and mostly fenced. It is small enough that two nights is usually plenty.

Nearby

Kampot and its pepper farms are half an hour away; the Bokor plateau rises behind.