Itaunas

The original Itaunas stood where the dunes now are. Sand that had been held in place began moving inland through the 1960s and 1970s, and by the end of that period it had covered the village, church tower included; the residents moved across the river and rebuilt. The dunes are still there, walkable, and the buried settlement underneath them is the reason people come to look. Deforestation and river changes are the usual explanations for why the sand started to move. The new village turned into something else entirely: it is one of the strongest forro scenes in Brazil, with dancing most nights in season and a festival at the end of July that fills the place. The state park behind protects restinga, turtle-nesting beach and the dune field itself.

What you actually see

• A village under the dunes - sand that covered the old settlement in the 1970s.
• Walkable dune field - the sand still moving inland behind the beach.
• Forro every night in season - the dance scene the rebuilt village became known for.
• Turtle-nesting beach - protected restinga coast inside the state park.

When to go

All year; July for the forro festival, when the village is at its fullest. Two days.

Honest expectations

The buried church is a story rather than a sight - nothing of the old village is visible above the sand. The July festival means full pousadas at high prices and very little sleep. The last road in is unpaved. Sun on the dunes is heavy with no shade at all.

Nearby

Conceicao da Barra is south; the Bahia border is just north.