The Rakitnica Canyon

The Rakitnica runs for around twenty-six kilometres between the Bjelašnica and Visočica massifs in a canyon that reaches eight hundred metres deep, and much of it has barely been surveyed: the river is fed by springs rather than surface water, so it runs cold and clear, and long stretches can only be passed by wading, swimming and scrambling. It is regularly described as one of the least explored canyons in Europe, and while that is partly marketing it is not far off, since there is no path along the bottom for most of its length and no phone signal in it at all. Guided descents from the rim take a full day, dropping steeply from Lukomir or Umoljani to the river and returning, and full traverses are multi-day expeditions for experienced groups only.

What you actually see

• The descent from the rim - the steep drop from the plateau to the river.
• The spring-fed river - cold, clear water running through untouched gorge.
• The canyon walls - eight hundred metres of rock between two massifs.
• The rim views - the canyon seen from Lukomir and the plateau above.

When to go

June to September only, when the plateau road is open and water levels allow; outside that the approach is snowbound and the canyon dangerous. Descents start early and take a full day. Guides are arranged in Sarajevo or through the plateau villages and are not optional.

Honest expectations

This is not a walk: descents involve steep loose ground, wading and swimming in cold water, and there is no phone signal and no easy exit once you are in, which is precisely why a guide is essential rather than advisable. Full traverses are serious multi-day undertakings. Those who only want the view can see the canyon perfectly well from the rim at Lukomir without going down.

Nearby

Lukomir sits on the rim; Umoljani and the Bjelašnica plateau are close.