Tinajani Canyon

Tinajani is a broad valley of red sandstone north of Ayaviri, on the high plateau between Puno and Cusco, where erosion has left free-standing towers, arches and blocks along both sides of a stream. The floor is open grass grazed by cattle and alpacas belonging to nearby communities, with stone corrals built against the rocks. Nothing here is on the standard route, so you are likely to have the place largely to yourself apart from herders. The altitude is around 4,000 metres and the light is hard, which suits the colour of the rock. A regional festival is held in the canyon each year, when the same ground fills with people.

What you actually see

• The rock towers - free-standing sandstone columns and arches along both sides of the valley.
• Stone corrals - herding enclosures built against the rock faces by local communities.
• The valley floor - open grazing with cattle and alpacas between the formations.
• Rock shelters - overhangs and caves in the sandstone walls, some still used by herders.

When to go

April to November is dry, with hard frosts at night and strong sun by day. The wet season makes the access track difficult and flattens the light. Late afternoon gives the best colour on the sandstone. The canyon is usually visited as a detour on the road between Puno and Cusco, which needs your own vehicle or a taxi hired in Ayaviri.

Honest expectations

There is nothing here beyond the landscape: no facilities, no marked trails and no signage, and the access track is rough. Altitude at 4,000 metres makes even easy walking feel harder than it should. Ayaviri is a working market town with limited accommodation. Anyone who has seen larger rock landscapes elsewhere may find it modest for the effort.

Nearby

Ayaviri is the nearest town, and the road south leads to Puno and Lake Titicaca.