Phajoding Monastery

Phajoding sits at around 3,600 metres on the ridge above Thimphu, a complex of a dozen or more temples, monastic houses and retreat cells strung across the slope, founded in the thirteenth century and expanded in the eighteenth. It was once one of the wealthiest monasteries in the country and has been on watch lists for endangered heritage because of the condition of some buildings. The walk up from Motithang takes about three hours through blue pine forest, gaining more than a thousand metres, and comes out on open ridge with a wide view over the Thimphu valley. A monastic school operates here. The route continues along the ridge and links to the Druk Path trek, so the monastery is also the first night's stop for some parties.

What you actually see

• Scattered temples - a dozen buildings spread across the ridge slope.
• Retreat houses - cells where monks undertake long meditation.
• The valley view - Thimphu far below from the open ridge.
• The forest climb - a thousand metres of ascent through blue pine.

When to go

March to May and September to November. The ridge is cold and can hold snow in winter and early spring. Monsoon closes the views. Starting early is important as the climb takes three hours.

Honest expectations

This is a hard day walk with over a thousand metres of ascent, not a stroll; altitude adds to it. Several buildings are in poor repair and closed. Facilities are minimal and water should be carried. The descent is hard on knees.

Nearby

Thimphu lies below; the Druk Path continues along the ridge.