Pele La Pass

Pele La carries the main east-west road over the Black Mountains at 3,420 metres and marks the traditional boundary between western and central Bhutan, a division that shows in dialect and dress as well as geography. The pass itself is a broad saddle covered in dwarf bamboo rather than forest, with a chorten and prayer flags, and yaks graze the slopes in the warmer months, brought up by herders from the valleys. In clear weather Jomolhari and Jichu Drake are visible to the west, though cloud is more usual. The road down the eastern side leads toward Trongsa past Chendebji Chorten, and the turning to Phobjikha valley leaves the highway just before the pass. Snow closes it occasionally in winter.

What you actually see

• Dwarf bamboo slopes - the low vegetation covering the saddle.
• Grazing yaks - herds brought up to the pass in the warm months.
• Prayer flags and chorten - the marking of the pass itself.
• Western peaks - Jomolhari and Jichu Drake on rare clear days.

When to go

March to May and September to November. October and November give the clearest views west. Snow can close the pass briefly in winter. Monsoon brings dense cloud and nothing to see.

Honest expectations

Views are frequently absent; the pass is cloudy much of the year. There are no facilities beyond a stall or two. The road is winding and the drive from either side takes hours. It is a stop of twenty minutes rather than a destination.

Nearby

Phobjikha valley lies south of the road; Chendebji Chorten is east.