Tharpaling Monastery

Tharpaling was founded in the fourteenth century by Longchen Rabjam, the Nyingma master usually called Longchenpa, who came from Tibet and established several monasteries in Bumthang during a period of exile; this is the most important of them, and he wrote here. It sits at around 3,600 metres on an open slope high above the Chhume valley, a large complex of temples and monastic housing with retreat huts scattered on the ridge above, home to a substantial community of monks. The view over the valley is wide and the setting bare and cold. A rough road climbs from the highway; the alternative is a walk from Chhume. Higher still is Choedrak, a cliffside retreat associated with Guru Rinpoche, reached on foot.

What you actually see

• The hillside complex - temples and monastic housing at 3,600 metres.
• Retreat huts - meditation cells scattered on the ridge above.
• Longchenpa's foundation - one of the master's principal Bhutanese sites.
• The valley panorama - Chhume spread out far below.

When to go

March to May and September to November. The approach road is snowbound in winter and muddy in monsoon. It is cold at this altitude in any season and the wind is constant.

Honest expectations

The access road is rough and steep and needs a capable vehicle. Interior access depends on the monastic timetable. Photography inside is forbidden. It is a working monastery with a large community, so quiet matters. There are no facilities.

Nearby

Chhume valley lies below; Jakar is east over the pass.