Phobjikha Valley

Phobjikha is a wide, flat-bottomed glacial valley at around 3,000 metres, and each winter it receives guests the whole country celebrates: black-necked cranes arrive from Tibet in late autumn, several hundred of them, and stay until February. They are revered locally, and the valley's development has been shaped around them - power lines were laid underground at considerable cost to keep the flight paths clear. Above the marshland sits Gangtey Goenpa, a large monastery on a forested spur, and the Gangtey Nature Trail descends from it through the villages to the valley floor in an easy, beautiful couple of hours.

History

In the 13th century, when the Bon religion prevailed here, the valley was known as Lhoma Ngönlung, and in the 14th century the lama Longchen Rabjam founded Ngenlung Drechagling in it. The origin of the present name is uncertain: one tradition credits Lama Drukpa Kunley, struck by the broad valley, with naming it Phobjikha, expansive valley, and another ties it to Gesar of Ling, whose birthplace is said to be the small plain in front of Gangtey Monastery (Wikipedia, Phobjikha Valley).

What you'll find

• Black-necked cranes - the wintering flock on the valley marsh from November.
• Gangtey Goenpa - the hilltop monastery above the valley.
• The Gangtey Nature Trail - the gentle downhill walk through villages and pine.
• The crane information centre - viewing scopes and the conservation story.

When to go

Cranes are present roughly from late October or November until February, with the Crane Festival held at the monastery in November. Spring brings wildflowers and easy walking without the birds. The valley is cold in winter, with wood stoves rather than central heating in most guesthouses.

Things to know

It is cold here - guesthouses use bukhari wood stoves and nights drop well below freezing in crane season, so pack accordingly. The road in crosses a high pass and can be slow or briefly closed after snow. Cranes are viewed at distance through scopes rather than up close, as they should be. Accommodation is limited and books out around the festival.

Nearby

Punakha's dzong and river valley, Wangdue Phodrang and the road to Trongsa.

Key facts