Haa Valley

Haa sits tucked against the western border and stayed closed to visitors until 2002, which is why it still feels like the Bhutan of thirty years ago: a narrow green valley of farmhouses and barley terraces with almost no tourism infrastructure. Getting there is half the appeal - the road climbs from Paro over Chele La, at around 3,900 metres the highest pass in the country reachable by car, where prayer flags snap in the wind and Jhomolhari's snow peak fills the horizon on clear mornings. In the valley stand the twin temples of Lhakhang Karpo and Lhakhang Nagpo, the white and black temples of local legend, and rhododendrons colour the slopes each spring.

What you actually see

• Chele La pass - the high pass crossing with prayer flags and mountain views.
• Lhakhang Karpo and Nagpo - the white and black temples of the valley.
• Village walks - farm tracks through barley terraces and pine.
• The Haa summer festival - nomadic culture, food and sports in July.

When to go

Spring through autumn is the accessible window, with rhododendrons on Chele La in April and May and clear mountain views in October and November. The summer festival falls in July. Winter brings snow to the pass and periodic closures.

Honest expectations

There is very little here in tourism terms - a handful of farmstays and small hotels, few restaurants, and that is precisely the appeal. Chele La is often clouded, so mountain views are luck. Altitude on the pass affects some visitors briefly. As with all Bhutan travel, a licensed operator and the daily fee apply.

Nearby

Paro and its dzong, the Tiger's Nest hike and the road toward Thimphu.