Phrumsengla National Park

Phrumsengla, formerly Thrumshingla National Park, protects the country between Bumthang and Mongar where the east-west highway climbs to Thrumshingla pass at around 3,750 metres and then descends more than three thousand metres to the Kuri Chhu, one of the steepest sustained descents on any road in the Himalaya. That gradient packs habitat zones close together, and the park is known among birdwatchers for it: rufous-necked hornbill, satyr tragopan, beautiful nuthatch, Ward's trogon and a long list of others occur along the road within a few hours' drive. Old-growth fir and hemlock stand near the pass, with rhododendron flowering in spring. Facilities are minimal and most birding is done from the roadside with a guide who knows the stops.

What you actually see

• The pass forest - old-growth fir and hemlock near 3,750 metres.
• The long descent - over three thousand metres down to the Kuri Chhu.
• Bird specialities - tragopan, hornbill and trogon along the road.
• Rhododendron flowering - spring colour on the upper slopes.

When to go

March to May for rhododendrons and breeding birds, October and November for clear weather. The pass can be snowbound in winter and monsoon brings landslides that close the highway for days.

Honest expectations

The highway is the park's main access and it is a working road with freight traffic and frequent roadworks. Landslides close it without warning in the wet season. Accommodation near the park is very limited. Birding needs a specialist guide to be productive.

Nearby

Jakar lies west; Mongar is east down the descent.