Tamzhing Lhakhang

Tamzhing was built in 1501 by Pema Lingpa, the terton or treasure-revealer who is the most important religious figure native to Bhutan, and it is unusual because he built it himself with his disciples and painted parts of it, so the murals inside are original early sixteenth-century work rather than later repainting, which is rare. The layout is idiosyncratic, following his own design rather than convention. Among the objects kept here is a coat of chain mail said to have been made by Pema Lingpa; pilgrims lift it and carry it three times around the temple as a penance, and it is heavy enough that this is a genuine effort. The monastery has been restored with international support. It stands across the river from Kurjey, reached by a short drive or a footbridge.

What you actually see

• Original murals - early sixteenth-century painting by Pema Lingpa's circle.
• The chain mail - the heavy coat pilgrims carry around the temple.
• Unconventional layout - a plan following the founder's own design.
• The monastic community - a working body of monks in residence.

When to go

March to May and September to November. The Tamzhing Phala Choepa festival falls in autumn. The murals need daylight and a torch, so a bright day helps.

Honest expectations

Photography inside is forbidden and the interior is dark, so the murals take patience. Lifting the chain mail is genuinely heavy and not advisable for anyone with a bad back. The building is small and the visit short. Restoration has changed some surfaces.

Nearby

Kurjey Lhakhang is across the river; Jakar lies south.