Caracol

Caracol was one of the giants of the Maya world - a city that defeated Tikal in war in the sixth century and supported a population larger than modern Belize City across a huge sprawl of causeways and reservoirs. Its central pyramid, Caana, the Sky Palace, rises over 40 metres and remains the tallest human-made structure in Belize, ancient or modern. The ruins sit deep in the Chiquibul forest near the Guatemalan border, reached by a long rough road through the Mountain Pine Ridge, which keeps visitor numbers a fraction of anything comparable - most days you share the city with toucans and howler monkeys.

What you actually see

• Caana, the Sky Palace - the climb up Belize's tallest structure.
• The plazas and ballcourts - the excavated core of a vast city.
• The forest wildlife - toucans, howlers and oscillated turkeys among the ruins.
• Mountain Pine Ridge en route - waterfalls and pools for the return leg.

When to go

The dry season from December to May keeps the road passable; rains can close it entirely. Check current convoy/escort arrangements in San Ignacio the day before. Start early - it is a long day with the drive both ways.

Honest expectations

The road is the price: hours of jarring track each way, occasionally requiring 4x4 and sometimes closed. Facilities at the site are minimal - bring lunch and water. The Guatemalan border's proximity has meant escort arrangements at times; local guidance is current and should be followed. Combine the return with Rio On Pools or Big Rock Falls to soften the drive.

Nearby

Mountain Pine Ridge's falls and pools, San Ignacio and Xunantunich.