Villa General Belgrano

Villa General Belgrano was settled in the 1930s by German-speaking immigrants, and later by crew members of the Graf Spee interned in Argentina, and it built its identity on that heritage: half-timbered facades, steep roofs, bakeries selling strudel and lebkuchen, breweries, and shops full of smoked sausage and chocolate. The result is a Bavarian pastiche in the middle of the Córdoba sierras that Argentines adore. Its Oktoberfest, the Fiesta Nacional de la Cerveza, runs for around ten days each October and fills the town with tens of thousands of visitors, beer tents, brass bands and parades. Outside the festival the town is a pleasant, well-kept base for the Calamuchita valley, with craft breweries open year-round and walking country close by.

History

Two German land speculators founded the village in 1930, drawn by the valley's farming potential, and its alpine feel attracted immigrants from Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Austria. After the German cruiser Admiral Graf Spee was scuttled off Montevideo following the Battle of the River Plate, 130 of its surviving crew settled here, and they helped build the red-roofed wooden houses, breweries and pastry and chocolate shops that still mark the town (Wikipedia, Villa General Belgrano).

What you'll find

• The alpine main street - half-timbered facades, bakeries and beer halls.
• The Oktoberfest - the October beer festival with tents, bands and parades.
• The craft breweries - local beer made in and around the town.
• The German bakeries - strudel, lebkuchen and smoked meats.

When to go

October for the beer festival, when accommodation must be booked months ahead and prices rise sharply. Otherwise spring and autumn are pleasant and quiet, and summer brings families on holiday. Winter is cool and low-season.

What to expect

The alpine theme is a construction rather than living tradition, and some travellers find it kitsch. During the festival the town is packed, loud and expensive, and hotel prices multiply. Outside it, there is little to do beyond eating, drinking and short walks.

Nearby

La Cumbrecita lies west up the valley; Santa Rosa de Calamuchita is a short drive away.

Key facts