El Rey National Park

El Rey occupies an amphitheatre of hills in eastern Salta where the yungas cloud forest meets the drier chaco woodland, and its horseshoe of ridges encloses a valley drained by the Popayán river. It is one of the quietest national parks in the country: on many days visitors are outnumbered by rangers, and the wildlife shows it, with tapir, peccary, brocket deer and tayra using the trails and more than three hundred bird species recorded, among them toucans, guans and hawk-eagles. Trails run from short loops near the old estancia buildings that serve as the park centre to longer walks up to Pozo Verde, a forest pool, and along the river valley. Getting in involves fording streams, which is why the park stays empty.

What you actually see

• The horseshoe of ridges - forested hills enclosing the Popayán valley.
• The birdlife - toucans, guans, parrots and raptors in the canopy.
• The trails - short loops from the ranger base and longer walks to Pozo Verde.
• The animal tracks - tapir and peccary sign along muddy paths and river edges.

When to go

May to October, the dry season, when the fords are lowest and trails passable; in summer the access road can be cut for days at a time. Early morning gives the best chance of wildlife. Rain is possible in any month in cloud forest.

Honest expectations

Access is the main obstacle: unpaved road, multiple river crossings and no public transport, so most visitors come with a tour or a capable vehicle. Facilities amount to camping and a ranger post, with no shop or fuel. Mammals are heard and tracked far more often than seen.

Nearby

Salta city lies west; Baritú and Calilegua protect the same yungas belt further north.