Luanda

Luanda, the capital of Angola, is a sprawling, energetic and famously expensive seaside metropolis on the Atlantic, a city of striking contrasts between oil-fuelled wealth and widespread poverty. Its heart is the Marginal, a sweeping bayfront promenade backed by a skyline of modern towers, while its history is preserved in the hilltop Fortress of Sao Miguel, dating from 1576 and now a museum, and in colonial churches and pastel buildings. Pulsing with the rhythms of kizomba and semba music born here, and looking out over a great bay, Luanda is a vibrant, chaotic and fascinating introduction to a little-visited country.

What you actually see

• The Fortress of São Miguel - the historic Portuguese hilltop fort and museum.
• The Marginal - the sweeping bayfront promenade and skyline.
• The colonial churches - the old Portuguese churches and buildings.
• The music scene - the kizomba and semba born in the city.

When to go

May to September, the cooler, drier season, for the most comfortable weather; the city is lively year-round, with a vibrant nightlife and music scene. The Marginal promenade and the fortress are best enjoyed in the cooler hours, and the bay is pleasant at sunset.

Honest expectations

Luanda is a big, hot, chaotic and, notoriously, one of the most expensive cities in the world, with stark inequality, heavy traffic and the usual big-city precautions, so its appeal is its energy, music, history and seaside setting rather than ease or polished sights; Angola's tourism is undeveloped and visas, though easing, have been a hurdle. As a vibrant, contrast-filled Atlantic capital and the gateway to a fascinating, little-visited country, though, Luanda is a compelling introduction.

Nearby

The Kissama park, the Mussulo peninsula beaches and the Kwanza River are close.