Syracuse and Ortigia

Syracuse was among the largest and richest cities of the Greek world, powerful enough to destroy an Athenian invasion fleet in four hundred and thirteen BC, and the layers of what came after are still legible. On the island of Ortigia, the cathedral is a Doric temple of Athena from the fifth century BC that was walled in and converted: the original columns stand embedded in the nave walls, visible from inside. The archaeological park on the mainland holds a Greek theatre cut into the rock, a Roman amphitheatre, and the Ear of Dionysius, a limestone quarry cave with extraordinary acoustics.

What you'll find

• The cathedral - a Greek temple converted, with its columns in the walls.
• The Greek theatre - cut into the rock, still used for classical drama.
• The Ear of Dionysius - the quarry cave with its acoustics.
• Ortigia - the island old town, walkable end to end.

When to go

April to June and September to October. The Greek theatre stages classical plays in May and June, which is the best reason to time a visit. Ortigia's market is at its best in the morning. Summer is very hot and crowded.

Before you go

The archaeological park is exposed with almost no shade and is punishing in summer. The two halves of the city, Ortigia and the park, are a walk apart through unattractive modern streets. Ortigia has become expensive and parts of it are given over entirely to visitors. Parking on the island is difficult.

Nearby

Noto is 40 minutes south; Catania is an hour north.