Pho Bang Village

Pho Bang lies in a hollow off the main road through the Dong Van karst plateau, a village of Hoa - ethnic Chinese - and H'mong households whose houses are built of rammed earth with tiled roofs and painted wooden shutters, several with red paper couplets at the doors, and the effect is of a place that belongs on the other side of the border rather than in Vietnam. Because the road in is a spur rather than the main route, most people driving the loop pass the turning. Buckwheat is grown around the village and flowers pink in October and November, which is the plateau's other season.

What to look for

• Rammed earth houses - with tiled roofs and painted shutters.
• Hoa and H'mong households - and red couplets at the doors.
• A spur off the main road - which is why most people miss it.
• Buckwheat in flower - pink across the fields in October and November.

When to go

September to November for buckwheat and harvest; March to May otherwise. Half a day.

What to expect

The village is small and takes an hour. Services are almost none. Photographing houses and people needs asking. The plateau roads are winding and cold in winter.

Nearby

Sung La and the Vuong palace are on the main road; Dong Van is north.