Hanoi and the Old Quarter

Hanoi, the thousand-year-old capital of Vietnam, is one of the most atmospheric cities in Asia, where the frenetic maze of the Old Quarter, its streets each once devoted to a single trade, meets elegant French colonial boulevards, tranquil lakes and ancient temples. Motorbikes swarm, street-food vendors crouch on tiny stools, and the city buzzes with a chaotic, intoxicating energy softened by lakeside calm and shady trees.

What to look for

• The Old Quarter - the frenetic maze of trade streets and street food.
• Hoan Kiem Lake - the tranquil lake and its temple at the city's heart.
• The Temple of Literature - the ancient Confucian temple and first university.
• The French Quarter - the colonial boulevards, opera house and cafes.

When to go

October to April for the cooler, drier weather; autumn is especially pleasant. The summer is hot and humid with heavy rain. The Old Quarter is best explored on foot, with a coffee stop to watch the swirling street life.

Good to know

The traffic is legendary, an unending swarm of motorbikes, so crossing the road takes nerve, walk slowly and steadily and they will flow around you. The Old Quarter is chaotic, noisy and can overwhelm. Northern winters are cooler and greyer than many expect. Its charm is the energy and street life, not grand sights.

Nearby

Ha Long Bay, the mountains of Sapa and the Ninh Binh karsts are all reached from Hanoi.