Cuc Phuong National Park

Cuc Phuong was the first national park declared in Vietnam and protects a long block of limestone hills under evergreen rainforest, between the delta and the mountains. A single road runs into the centre, with trails leading off it to an enormous buttressed tree, a prehistoric cave used by early inhabitants, and a botanical area. The park also hosts rescue and breeding centres for langurs, gibbons, pangolins and freshwater turtles, open to visitors at set times and by far the most reliable way to actually see animals here. Wildlife in the forest itself is hard to spot, but the birdlife is good, and in late April clouds of butterflies fill the entrance road.

What you actually see

• The primate rescue centre - enclosures for langurs and gibbons taken from the wildlife trade.
• The ancient tree trail - the walk through tall forest to a huge buttressed tree.
• The turtle conservation centre - breeding ponds for native freshwater and land turtles.
• Butterfly season - the swarms along the park road in late April and early May.

When to go

November to April is drier and cooler, with fewer leeches and easier walking underfoot. Late April and early May bring the butterflies, the park's best known sight, though it is already humid by then. The rescue centres run guided visits at fixed morning and afternoon slots, so check the times before arriving. Night walks and birding trips need booking ahead.

Honest expectations

Do not come expecting large mammals: the forest is dense and most wildlife is nocturnal or long gone. Trails are muddy and leeches are common through the wet months. The road into the park is long and there is little public transport, so a car or motorbike is close to essential. Accommodation inside is basic, and food is limited to the park canteens on their own schedule.

Nearby

The Trang An karst and Ninh Binh town lie about an hour east, with the Van Long wetland in between.